“Half fairy tale and half tourist trap” as Thomas Mann commented, Venice has a somewhat antagonist relationship with its visitors. With a population comparable to a decent-sized town (or a village, if you’re reading this in China), and a tourist influx in the millions each year, friction was bound to result. For a detailed exploration of this subject, and the potentially disastrous results for the city, read this fascinating article by Cathy Newman at the National Geographic site. It contains some wonderfully dramatic flourishes:

Please take your seats. In this play, Venice assumes a dual role. There is Venice the city where people live and Venice the city tourists visit. Lighting, sets, and costumes are so beautiful the heart aches, but the plot is full of confusion, the ending uncertain. One thing is certain: Everyone is madly in love with the title character.

Of course, ravenous camera-toting hordes wrapped in safari gear, maps fluttering in the breeze, are not the only danger threatening Venice. As anyone with an eye on the news will know, Venice is the ultimate barometer for climate change. Flood season is any time between autumn and early spring, as increased water levels push in from the Adriatic, and believe me – you don’t want to get caught in one.

National Geographic's Vanishing Venice

You can get a handle on the water level situation yourself with an intriguing little web application that seems purpose-built to appeal to your inner sadist (or am I projecting here?). Nudge up the yellow indicator and you can see the perils facing Venice for yourself. Visions of Kevin Costner and a massive waste of money come flooding back. How we laughed.