In the early 19th century Argentina was one of the ten richest countries on earth. Its great herds of cattle supplied beef to the world. Walk around Buenos Aires and you’ll see monuments to this wealth on every street. One example of this grandiose building spree can be found at 1860 Avenida Sante Fe. If you’re a bookworm, you’re in for an orgasmic treat, for it’s here you’ll find the world’s most magnificent bookstore.

The grandest in all of South America

Built in 1919 by Austrian immigrant Max Glücksmann, El Ateneo was originally a theater. But not just any theatre. Carried along by the optimism of the times, Glücksmann wanted to build the grandest in all of South America. His vision fulfilled, Argentineans enjoyed artistic performances to rival the capitals of Europe.

You won’t find a more gloriously decorative place to launch literary careers anywhere in the world.

Splendidly decadent

But Gluckman’s artistic fervor was yet to be sated. In 1924, he launched the modestly titled Radio Splendid. Then five years on he converted the theatre into a cinema. Now, decades later, it premiers novels rather than films.

You won’t find a more gloriously decorative place to launch literary careers anywhere in the world. While it’s not difficult to find opulently decorated cafés and restaurants in Buenos Aires, somehow a bookstore in a similar vein feels outrageously decadent. Perhaps it’s the association with puritan libraries that makes people expect books shops to be more, well… chaste.

Stage write

At the Ateneo, you’re greeted by all the trapping of the finest theatre. Above, high doomed ceilings are resplendent with luscious paintings. On every wall ornate carvings gaze out at you. Balconies ring the shop, while theater boxes allow you to read in peace and comfort. And if you somehow manage to forget the El Ateneo’s theatrical history, the red satin curtains draping the stage will remind you.

A selection to applaud

If you’re not too stage struck, by the dazzling interior, to concentrate, there’s a fine selection of books to choose from too. With one floor dedicated to literature, another to academic tomes, a third to music and a basement chock a block with children’s books, you really are spoilt for choice. And if, while reading the latest literary treat, you’re so overwhelmed by writer’s skill you feel the desire to applaud, go crazy. El Ateneo is more than used to standing ovations.